The Lost Coast doesn't have roads through it for a reason. That's exactly why you should go.
What it is
The Lost Coast is the longest stretch of undeveloped coastline in the contiguous United States. The King Range mountains rise so steeply from the Pacific that the state highway system bypassed the whole area entirely. No road cuts through. No cell service. Almost no infrastructure, which is exactly why it looks the way California used to look before anyone built anything on it.
Night one: Shelter Cove
Start at Shelter Cove on the southern end. It's a small community at the bottom of a long winding descent from the highway: black pebble beach, sea stacks, sea otters floating in the kelp. Camp here the first night.
Before you leave in the morning, stock up at the general store. It's sparse but it's there, and once you drive King Peak Road north to Mattole there's nothing until the Honeydew Mart on the way out. Don't skip the general store.
King Peak Road
The drive from Shelter Cove north to Mattole Beach goes over King Peak Road, a narrow, unpaved single-lane road through the mountains. It's not technical but it demands attention. Clearance helps. The views through the redwoods and over the ridgeline are worth it.
On the way, there's a single-track off-road detour to a lunch spot above the Mattole River mouth. Do it. The view from up there is one of the better ones of the trip. Cows and farmland in the foreground, the river curving down to where it meets the Pacific coast. It's a picture card moment.
The hike: Mattole to Punta Gorda
Mattole Beach is the trailhead. The trail follows the beach the entire way. There are no switchbacks, no elevation, just dark sand, surf, and wind. Seven miles round trip to the Punta Gorda Lighthouse and back.
Check the tide chart before you go. Some sections between Mattole and the lighthouse narrow against the cliffs at high tide. Use NOAA's tide charts as a reference.
On the beach, keep an eye out for wildlife. We found a chiton, one of the oldest mollusks on earth, a segmented armored creature that's been clinging to rocks in the Pacific for 500 million years.
One thing you certainly don't need to keep an eye out for are the elephant seals. It was mating season and the males were fighting–large, loud, and completely indifferent to us standing twenty feet away. The lighthouse itself was built in 1910 and decommissioned in 1951. Explore the lighthouse, climb the steps and take in the views of the hike while observing the seals just ahead of you.
Night two: Mattole Beach
Camp at Mattole Beach. It's BLM land and at $8–15 a night it's one of the best deals you'll ever get on a campsite. It is exposed, so make sure to get there early or on a less busy weekend to secure a sheltered spot. The wind off the ocean at night is not subtle and doesn't stop.
Camp in the mangrovy area near the vegetation line at the back of the beach. There are a couple of fully sheltered spots, which, if you're lucky enough to snag would have you forgetting the torrential wind outside.
The drive out
Stop at the Honeydew Mart. It's a small general store in the tiny town of Honeydew, east of Mattole on the route back to Highway 101. Get something. It's the kind of place that exists because people out here needed it to exist.
From there, Mattole road takes you through the Avenue of the Giants, 32 miles of old-growth coast redwoods. Pull over. Walk into the trees and take in the scale. You don't truly understand the impressive nature of these trees until you're up against one.
From there, it's back onto the 101 on the long journey south (or north depending where your from). There are some incredible views along this stretch of the 101, but unfortunately, the best is now behind you.
What to bring
- Cash–for the campsite, the general store, and Honeydew Mart
- More water than you think–no reliable freshwater on the beach section
- Layers–fog and wind even in late May, especially overnight
- Tide chart–printed or screenshot before you lose service
- A vehicle with clearance for King Peak Road
- Good shoes for sand hiking–trail runners or boots, nothing with mesh that fills with sand
- Seaker Sun Balm–Zinc oxide, water resistance, and built for the rugged conditions.
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